APRIL IS PRUNING HYDRANGEA MONTH….

©linda nelson 2014

…on the east coast, that is.  My work season is just kicking in, and I’ve got my pruners sharpened.  Most of my clients have hydrangeas on their properties, and LOTS of them.  The one pictured is mine, all mine; my little ‘Nikko Blue’ that could, that does, and that always will.  Unlike the very popular ‘Endless Summer’ and others that bloom on both current and previous growth, this cultivar blooms only on the previous year’s woody growth.  And I prefer that.  Why?  Because the woody stems do a better job at supporting the heavy, mop headed blooms.  I also feel that the hue of Nikko’s blooms is more deeply saturated.  My homestead’s soil happens to be acidic (and sandy); therefore, I receive blueish “gifts”.

Contrary to what many text books tell you as to the correct time for pruning the macrophylla species, April is ideal.  Why?  Letting the old blooms remain on the plant for the winter adds additional insulation and protection from the elements.  It also discourages browsing deer from munching down the stems.  By mid to late April you are able to differentiate the roundish, dense flowering buds from the slender, pointed leaf buds.  This enables you to see what point to prune at, which is just above the highest flowering bud.  The leafy buds can get pruned back just enough to shape the plant to your liking.  I have successfully been using this method for my clients’ hydrangeas as well as my own.  I also prune my paniculata hydrangeas in the spring, and boy, do I prune them hard!  Come late August, the flower heads on these guys are the size of footballs.  If you live in deer browsing country and your property is not securely fenced to keep those prancing beauties at bay, get started on a repellant spray routine immediately.  I prefer to use Deer Out because it is people and pet friendly.  It’s deer friendly, too; they just don’t like the way it tastes.  Experiment to see what product works for you.  Most importantly, spray regularly and diligently.  For some of you, like me, that may mean more often than the product’s directions suggest; deer visit my yard on a daily basis.

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TAKE A STAND AND FACE YOUR GARDEN….

….literally, that is.  When discussing design ideas with my clients, I bring to their attention that a garden bed may have more than one face.  Pictured is the view I enjoy leading up to and away from my home office.  The ability to appreciate areas of my yard is effortless, and that’s what I seek to deliver to my clients.

©linda nelson 2014
©linda nelson 2014

Below is a garden bed I designed for a client a few years back.  Whether pulling up into the driveway, entering and exiting the front door, or looping around with a vehicle, the visual appeal of this bed is balanced.  Planted directly behind my clients’ beloved Checker Cow are the tallest plants; behind them the plantings drop down in height again.  Eyes from all directions have a vantage point.

©linda nelson 2014
©linda nelson 2014
Put your wellies on, stroll the yard and start visualizing.  Be sure to consider and include vantage points from inside your home; the birds-eye view from the window of your attic turned study counts as a face, too.  This is the ideal time of year for garden revamping and tweaking.  Why should all of your invested and prized plant material be laid out in such a way that only street cars driving by can appreciate it, or only when you are sitting in that particular patio chaise lounge?  A garden bed has the potential to strike many poses if given a little forethought.

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COMMON HERB SENSE: A FEW PRACTICAL HERB PLANTING TIPS

I’m sure many of you are thinking about which culinary and sensory provoking herbs you’ll be growing this year.  But, have you given thought to the design aspect of planting those delectable favorites?  Maybe you’re the proud owner of a meticulously pampered potager, or you’re just a natural with knowing how to artistically plant up your herbs.  That’s great; keep doing what you’re doing.  But, some of you may be less confident with how to incorporate herbs into your patio garden decor.  Here are a few tips to consider:
  • If your property is zen-like or minimalistic, incorporate your herbs in the same fashion.  Planting them in farm or country, cottage cutesy styled containers will disturb the overall design.  Likewise, if your patio furniture is large and architectural in design, your potted herbs will successfully complement your outdoor living space if they are planted in boldly architectural looking containers.  Is your abode an old farmhouse?  I’m sure you can figure out what I would suggest.
  • Don’t be fooled and smitten by nonsensical container planting practices, such as growing herbs in teacups or dainty little wicker baskets.  Even small herbs, such as thyme, will fare better in a bigger pot (not too big, though).  If you absolutely love and must have those Thumbelina sized vessels, then place them in a slightly less sunny spot.
  • Divide your ground grown perennial herbs, such as oregano and chives, each season.  Give your divisions away to family and friends, or toss them into the compost pile.  A two foot diameter clump of oregano is seriously unattractive, no matter how much its pungent aroma takes your olfactory senses back to your grandma’s homemade pasta sauce.  Besides, it will perform better.
  • Some shrub herbs, such as lavender, sage and rosemary, eventually become woody, gangly and lose their overall visual appeal and vigor.  That’s when it is time to bid them farewell and replace them with new ones.  It is what it is.
  • Be curious.  Peruse the herb section of your local garden center and choose a few herbs that you have never grown before, even if it is just because they look pretty or smell nice.  You don’t have to use them to enjoy them.
  • Speaking of looking pretty…. yes, you can plant herbs together with annual and perennial flowering and foliage plants in the same pot.  Choose an appropriately sized container, then go for it.  It will look fabulous.  Plus, you’ll gain the reputation that you’re quirky and love living on the edge.
  • Though purists may instruct you otherwise, it’s okay to plant a variety of herbs in one pot.  The tradeoff, however, is that by mid season the plants will shade and choke each other out.  Your harvest will not be as prolific and may be susceptible to disease and fungus.   Either keep the design arrangement simple or regularly trim and harvest to keep your herbs within bounds.
The inspirational herb garden design tips to discover are endless.  I hope these few practical ones I’ve shared can help you get started.  Happy herb planting!

©linda nelson 2014

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RUSTIC COUTURE SPRING BONNET: TUTORIAL

You’d like to make a rustic couture spring bonnet, would you?

This is what you’ll need for making a 6″(approx.) diameter bonnet:
  • a piece of window screening cut into an 8″ circle (check your garage/basement for remnants or purchase some by the foot at a hardware store).  Do not use nylon screen; you can’t form/shape it.  I used a lunch plate as a template and a Sharpie pen to trace my circle.
  • floral wire (roughly 14″ long)
  • acrylic paint & a brush or sponge (I like to create a patina effect using “muddy” greens and blues)
  • ribbon, moss, twigs, notions….(whatever your heart desires for embellishing)
  • scissor type tool that cuts through metal mesh (I used an old pair of boning shears)
  • 2 1/8″ diameter herb container (to use as your”hat form”)
Trace your template onto the mesh, then carefully (the edges are sharp) cut it out.  Next, center your circle over the herb container and squeeze the mesh to fit snuggly around the lid.  Bend upward and crease what would be the brim part of the hat.

©linda nelson 2014

Remove your hat from the form, then use your floral wire (no needle necessary) to stitch, up and down fashion, around and along the crease line.  Twist the two ends together to secure.  This step reinforces your bonnet.  The remaining ends of the floral wire provide a means to fasten some embellishments onto it.  The wire tails can also be kinked and twisted, thus becoming part of the design.  Trim the brim to shape and to your liking of it’s width.  I crimp and fray the edge by giving it a little tug and pulling off a few loose strands; that’s what makes it rustic looking. 

©linda nelson 2014

Dab on some paint, if you’d like, though this step is completely optional.  I chose not to paint the one pictured below.  Sew or glue on your embellishments.  You can put your bonnet back on the hat form, if you’d like; it frees up both of your hands while working on it.
©linda nelson 2014

There you have it.  All done.  Now, get creative.

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